The Northern Way by Gravel: 800 Kilometers of Freedom and Flavors
There was no route plan. No bookings, no scheduled stages, no rush. Just a custom steel bike, the Cantabrian Sea to the left, and a sacred direction: Santiago de Compostela.
Riding the Camino del Norte, one of the oldest pilgrimage routes to Santiago, on a gravel bike turned into something deeper than a trip. It became a rhythm of effort and reflection, where each day unfolded through landscapes, flavors, and flow.
The Bike: Scarab Páramo, A Steel Companion for the Camino
Handbuilt in Colombia by Scarab Cycles, the Scarab Páramo was the perfect companion: a modern steel gravel bike designed for long days and unpredictable terrain. Comfortable, responsive, and beautiful, this bike felt made for the Camino.
Build Specs:
- Frame: Scarab Páramo, custom steel geometry
- Groupset: Campagnolo Ekar 13-speed — light, crisp, and bombproof
- Wheelset: Campagnolo Shamal Carbon — fast and tubeless-ready
- Cockpit & Seatpost: Deda Zero 100 — clean and dependable
- Tires: Pirelli Cinturato Gravel 45 mm — all-day grip and comfort
- Saddle: Brooks Cambium C13
- Bags: Brooks Scape Series — minimalist, waterproof, and rock solid
This setup handled everything: tarmac, gravel, mud, steep climbs, fast descents, medieval cobbles, and coastal winds.
Off the Bike: BERT Shoes, Light, Packable, Essential
When the riding stopped, one piece of gear became unexpectedly essential: BERT shoes. Lightweight and packable, they barely took space in the bags yet proved invaluable every evening.
After hours on the saddle, slipping into BERTs felt like a ritual. Their barefoot-inspired comfort made them ideal for exploring cobbled streets, stretching tired feet, or simply walking around small towns after dinner. In colder coastal nights, they provided warmth and ease, a welcome contrast to stiff cycling shoes.
For bikepacking, versatility is everything and BERT shoes delivered. They were city-friendly, camp-friendly, and tough enough to handle all the off-bike moments that give the Camino its magic.
The Philosophy: Flow Like a Pilgrim
No fixed stages. No hotel reservations. Each morning began with the same questions: How do the legs feel? What’s the weather saying? What direction calls today? That flexibility became the trip’s heartbeat.
This wasn’t about speed or distance, it was about presence. About noticing things. About moving with intention, like a pilgrim.
The Stages: A Journey in Eight Acts
Each stage blended effort, history, and discovery:
- Irún – Zarautz (59.8 km): Sweeping coastal views from Jaizkibel and a warm welcome in a historic fishing town.
- Zarautz – Portugalete (110.3 km): Through Bilbao’s industrial heartland and across the UNESCO-listed Puente Colgante.
- Portugalete – Santander (95.3 km): Ferry crossings and medieval chapels, arriving in a bustling port city.
- Santander – Ribadesella (133.3 km): Rugged Asturias, Romanesque churches, and prehistoric cave art.
- Ribadesella – Cudillero (121.3 km): Cliffs, valleys, and a timeless fishing village of colorful houses.
- Cudillero – Ribadeo (104.9 km): Into Galicia, with misty forests and estuaries.
- Ribadeo – Vilalba (72.1 km): Quiet paths, stone crosses, and monastic heritage.
- Vilalba – Santiago (101.2 km): The final push through eucalyptus groves, ending at the cathedral’s grand square.
The Taste and the View
Though the ride was about spirit, the senses were always engaged: salty air from the Basque coast, dense Galician forests, bowls of hot stew after cold descents, and the sweet bite of tarta de Santiago at the journey’s end.
Conclusion: The Camino, in Gravel and Spirit
The Camino del Norte isn’t just a route, it’s a living thread of land, history, culture, and soul. Riding it on gravel, with no fixed plan, became a new way to experience an ancient tradition.
Here, bikepacking becomes pilgrimage. And with the right gear, from a handbuilt bike to shoes designed for freedom, the journey becomes something you carry with you, long after the wheels stop turning.
